Editor's Note: This was originally part of a post to the Usenet newsgroup rec.games.pinball by Mike Minchew. The parts of the post that did not relate to pinball machine restoration have been removed, and the resulting information prettied up with some basic html formatting. Mike deserves all credit for this information.

Ok, back to the matter at hand. When I say *restored*, I consider this to be a much higher level of attention than shopped out. On average, every game that I have restored has about 80-100 hours of skillful attention and loving care given to it. Those who have seen or own some of my games can speak to this and exactly what it means.

Although I could not possibly (nor desire to at this time) document every step involved, at a minimum it includes:

• Removing the Playfield (for detailed work later and better access to cabinet).
• Precleaning the Cabinet Interior (vacuuming, etc).
• Masking off and repainting the black interior edges of cabinet.
• Removal of Coin Door (for initial cleaning and evaluation).
• Coin Door/Frame/Bolts repainted with high grade German epoxy paint if scratched, if damaged replace.
• Removal of Legs for Cleaning and Waxing (replace if not cleanable to original).
• All wire ties on cabinet/head wiring are removed.
• Cabinet/Head Wiring is cleaned/straightened and re-cable tied (done correctly should end up looking like wiring in a NASA Satellite).
• Cabinet is seam glued with professional resin glue (also glue/seal bottom edge of cabinet, in case game must be moved w/o legs)
• Exterior of cabinet/head is retouched where needed.
• 4-5 Coats of Wax applied to cabinet to bring out original luster.
• Cleaned or New Legs and Bolts installed.
• Final cleaning of cabinet including channels for playfield glass with q-tips and Novus #1.
• Translite is cleaned with Novus #1 (for newer games only).
• All new backglass trim/lift channels installed.
• All fuses pulled and verified for correct value/type (replace if any question).
• Batteries are replaced and install date noted on a stick on label.
• All boards are pulled and checked, reinstalled with all ground-plane screws in place and suitably tight (of course, repair boards connectors as needed).
• All bolts and hardware in head/hinges are cleaned/tighten/replaced as needed.
• Replace Top-of-Playfield Glass Protector if damaged (black plastic piece)
• Verify Operation of both speaker in speaker panel and replace as needed.
• Evaluate operation of DMD, replace if badly burned in or other problem.
• As noted above, all wiring is re-worked and re-cable tied. A nice touch, since playfield is removed is to bundle head wiring in two distinct bundles so that removing playfield is easier in the future.
• Any cabinet/head stickers that are peeling are carefully glued down.
• Install felt pads on corner of cabinet where glass slides out of channels.
• Be sure flipper buttons are clean, smooth, and adjusted if necessary.
• Clean/Replace Lock Bar and Lever Guide Assy as needed, if cleaned install new foam lining.
• Initial Cleaning of playfield and strip down all flippers to mounting plates.
• Remove all upper playfield parts/bulbs and clean/ order replacements as needed.
• Remove all cable ties on lower playfield and clean re-route wiring and re-cable tie.
• Good cleaning can be done with shopvac blower and paintbrush. Games should have Zero to nearly zero "flipper dust" anywhere when completed.
• Repair/Replace any lower playfield parts damaged or suspected to have excessive wear.
• Clean and adjust every contact and switch for optimum performance:
• test-test-test...
• Rebuild all flippers with new coils and kits and playfield bushings.
• Clean everything, everywhere....Q-tip all light shields, remove and windex all light bulbs.
• All tunnels removed and cleaned, novused, etc......enough said.
• Clean upper playfield to perfection, repair any damage as needed.
• Rebuild upper playfield with all new rubbers (manuals don't always show proper sizes).
• Clean and adjust every contact and switch for optimum performance:
• test-test-test...
• Be sure flippers are clean and wiped with novus before replacing flipper rings.
• Rebuild ball plunger with new (and correct) springs, bushings, tip, etc.
• Clean the arch (score and instruction tray) and adjust any parts as needed.
• Replace arch rubber glass bumper if missing.
• Reinstall playfield and properly route and cable tie the wiring.
• Check everything visually a couple of times for fit and finish, adjust as needed.
• New playfield glass if needed, always use tempered glass.
• New pinballs - I use only Grade 25, Chromium Steel as opposed to grade 500-1000 Carbon Steel. The Grade refers to the roundness and surface polishing - not the Hardness, which is determined by the composition.

OK, there's more and I'm sure that I left out a bunch of stuff (hope I didn't forget to put any important parts back on). I decided to cap this adventure at 30 minutes of writing and I type slowly :-)

I'm not a nut or anything, but I decided that I only wanted really nice pieces in my collection. The kind that always work and play like perfection. Cost and investment are not the primary issues with this kind of project. I'm not saying everyone wants to take the hobby to this level, but I do think that it qualifies me to at least use the term *restored* when describing my games if I want to.

I don't know everything about this hobby, and I seem to learn some new trick from every seriuos pin person that I meet, but I don't think that I'm clueless either :-)

Mike Minchew
Plano, TX
hthn48a@prodigy.com